Mi-t-m hds-3505 problems

[OKWASHER]

I an new to this site, but I have a problem and i need some direction. I have a MI-T-M HDS-3505 hot water washer, 4.7/3500psi. my problem is the ignitor is shorting out and I have narrowed it down to the engine. it runs just fine until i put under load, and then the RPM falls and the volts drop to around 70, and you let off and it REVS real high and the volts go up to like 140-150, and that is poping my ignitor. I have done two coil cleans on it to clean any restrictions, and I also bypassed the coil itself to take that out of the equation, so I have ruled out any restrictions in the line. now I am at the motor(honda 20hp gx620), new fuel line, filter, air filter, plugs, adjusted the valves into spec, did a comp test (120psi), tried adjusting the governor, did not help. I am leaning towards the carb, or a governor problem. any help would be greatly apreciated.

[Carlos]

OKWasher...can you please go to the USER CP (upper left corner) and add your signuature. Forum Rules...thank you in advance and welcome to the UAMCC BBS.

[Guy B]

Check inlet water filter, check bearings in the generator, check belt alignment.

[Doug T]

unloader/pump

[cleanhoods]

Clean the carb.
Marko

[Alexy]

OKWASHER
I have that same machine. If your voltage is varying like that you have one of 3 problems the coil itself could be going bad with the voltage all over the place like that. To check it you need to physically gap it to the magneto wheel. To do that diconnect the fuel lines to the pump and remove the 4 10 mm bolts that the pump plate has holding it to the frame . Once removed you will see the coil in the top left of the machine it should be gapped evenly around the circumfrence of the wheel. I use a match book cover to gap it and make sure the bolt are tight once you determine the coil is not bad.
Check your ignitor wires there is usually a slice about 1/2 way up the wires where it is installed in 2 pieces as it exits the frame and the joint can go bad. Once that is done check the ignotor caps to make sure they are tight.
Lastly check the burner. Disconnect the fuel line in and the caps as well ttake the 3 bolts that hold the burner assembly into the top of the burner and remove it. The ignitors should be gapped evenly and be clean , clean the fuel nozzle as well while you are there and re-assemble.
When I have had problems withthe 35004 or 3504 series I have replaced the coil and it has allways solved the issue.

[Carlos]

OKWASHER
I have that same machine. If your voltage is varying like that you have one of 3 problems the coil itself could be going bad with the voltage all over the place like that. To check it you need to physically gap it to the magneto wheel. To do that diconnect the fuel lines to the pump and remove the 4 10 mm bolts that the pump plate has holding it to the frame . Once removed you will see the coil in the top left of the machine it should be gapped evenly around the circumfrence of the wheel. I use a match book cover to gap it and make sure the bolt are tight once you determine the coil is not bad.
Check your ignitor wires there is usually a slice about 1/2 way up the wires where it is installed in 2 pieces as it exits the frame and the joint can go bad. Once that is done check the ignotor caps to make sure they are tight.
Lastly check the burner. Disconnect the fuel line in and the caps as well ttake the 3 bolts that hold the burner assembly into the top of the burner and remove it. The ignitors should be gapped evenly and be clean , clean the fuel nozzle as well while you are there and re-assemble.
When I have had problems withthe 35004 or 3504 series I have replaced the coil and it has allways solved the issue.

Now...that is some advice. Outstanding!!!

[OKWASHER]

Hey thanks for all the advice, I found the problem, it was the motor. the governor was letting the motor fall to low under load, then let off and it over reved and put out to much voltage, which was causing the ignitor to short out. the simple fix was to reset the governor, by taking loose the arm from the actual shaft that goes down in the motor. thanks again for all the info. i greatly appreciate it. ALSO anyone know where to get a new burner coil, I just got back toghether with my machine today and noticed the coil has a leak in it somewhere. It,s been below 0 around here for a few days, and I have been at the hospital with my wife, we just had our secound baby. thanks again, and I will go and take care of my signature.

[Alexy]

Go to Mi-T-M and put your zip code in. Sounds like you have mechanical skils and the 3400 series has no packing so it is a simple unbolt to the base of the coil by the drain and exit side of the coil and lift it straight out. See who will give you the best price on it and you can put it back together in about 2 hrs.

[OKWASHER]

I actually have the 3505, and it does have packing in it. any tips for installing. also anyone have anylock welding, or brasing the coil if I can reach the leak. my local dealer wants $1100 for the coil out the door, and $1500 installed. I think that is outrageous. I found one in florida from POWER KLEEN INC. for about $550 shipped which is a little more like it. I cannot believe that my local dealer that I bought all my equipment from new is going to screw me like that.